11th Março 2022

Portuguese Society of Cosmetic Sciences Congress Programme

The scientific programme for Cosmetinnov 2022 is focused on Cosmetics Future and will be divided in three sessions, aiming to deliver state of the art information on the most significant industry and R&D cosmetic issues.

The first session, “Looking to the future”, will provide an analysis of the future trends in Cosmetics, as well as near future developments in regulatory frameworks. It will be followed by a Discussion Panel with representatives of major Portuguese and EU players of this sector (regulatory authorities and associations).

Session 2, ” Towards the sustainability and ethics on cosmetics”, will be dedicated to Green and Sustainable Cosmetics. Through expert presentations you can hear how the industry is exceeding compliance toward more sustainable business structures, and get to know the latest advances in sustainable raw materials. The challenges that are associated with working with this type of ingredients will also be discussed.

Session 3, “Artificial Intelligence on Beauty Industry”, will be addressing the hot topic “Artificial intelligence applied to Cosmetics”. The possibilities emerging from such technological advances will be examined, as will the emergence of multiple apps to offer technological solutions to answer all consumers’ questions and needs.

08:30 - 09:00

Documentation delivery

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09:00 - 09:30


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Chair: Maurício Barbosa, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Porto

09:30 - 13:00

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09:30 - 10:00

Future trends on cosmetics

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Numa era pós-Covid em que o consumidor valoriza mais o bem-estar e a saúde e está cada vez mais consciente do nosso planeta, a beleza tornou-se não apenas uma satisfação na procura de resultados a nível cutâneo ou um meio de autossatisfação e autoestima, mas um total complemento do modo de vida e passou a integrar a atitude dos seus utilizadores. O paradigma do consumidor mudou de tal forma que consequentemente a indústria da cosmética e de beleza terão que se adaptar. Este novo consumidor, o qual se tornou mais exigente e cauteloso nas suas aquisições certifica-se antecipadamente das promessas e valores das marcas de cosmética e beleza que adquire, as quais deverão identificar-se com o que este aprecia de acordo com a sua atitude.

As marcas de beleza de futuro terão que ter uma identidade e valorização a 360 graus para o consumidor, desde a sua conceção ao packaging, para além de oferecer um conteúdo muito mais abrangente e completo a quem as procura. Os produtos cosméticos terão que alargar os seus âmbitos de atuação, desde a emergência de complementos na experiência de consumidor à aplicação ou forma de utilização, seja com o recurso a inteligência artificial.

10:00 - 10:30

Cosmetic regulation: what’s next?

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Presentation by Roman Mokry (European Commission)

The European Green Deal is the European Commission’s new growth strategy to transform the EU into a fair and prosperous society with a modern, resource-efficient and competitive economy, operating in a toxic-free environment with zero pollution.

The Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability (CSS) adopted in October 2020 outlines the European Commission’s strategy to better protect citizens and the environment against hazardous chemicals and encourage innovation for the development of safe and sustainable alternatives in the framework of the EU Green Deal.

The Strategy fully recognizes the fundamental role of chemicals for human well-being and for the green and digital transition of European economy and society. At the same time, it acknowledges the urgent need to address the health and environmental challenges caused by the most harmful chemicals. In this spirit, the Strategy sets out concrete actions to make chemicals safe and sustainable by design and to ensure that chemicals can deliver all their benefits without harming the planet and current and future generations.

The Strategy recognizes the need for a targeted revision of the Cosmetic Products Regulation, alongside other chemicals legislation including the REACH Regulation and CLP Regulation, to achieve its objectives by addressing a number of problems that have been identified.

The overall objective of the targeted revision is to ensure that relevant provisions of the Cosmetic Products Regulation reflect the ambitions of the Commission on innovation for safe and sustainable chemicals and a high level of protection of health and the environment, while preserving the internal market, as provided for in the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability.

10:30 - 11:30

Networking Coffee-break, poster and exhibition visit

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11:30 - 12:30

Round-table “Focus on cosmetics future”

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Focus on cosmetics future.

The future of cosmetic products is clearly in sight, since there are a series of very clear drivers that have been initiated in recent years and that have been reinforced during the pandemic. Focus on how the various social, digital and scientific advances are influencing the consumer sector and, since we are in a leading sector that moves at the pace of fashion, with a very high rate of innovation and an increasingly strict regulatory framework guided by European Green Deal and new USA and China regulations, although more global, what is really positive news.

With all this there are a series of couples that focus the attention of the future in the sector: On the one hand, the universe and the metaverse and on the other, the planet and people.

We can recreate a cosmetic product of a brand that we are engaged with in the metaverse, because of the transparency of the brand, with a "cleaner" formula, biodegradable ingredients, greener manufacturers with international kpis of sustainability and digitalization of traceability from the filling equipment. The packaging will be recycled or reused or biodegradable. This product will also have a lower carbon footprint due to transportation and it will generate less waste.

The consumer will be more socially engaged, better informed thanks to digital development, and with more affinity to follow and buy products related to their needs, their beliefs and their lifestyle. The sales channel will be digitized and optimized through the metaverse, the blockchain and Big Data, allowing the relationship between brands and the consumer to be much closer.


Zoran Gravic


In the view of continuously developing cosmetic market and the upcoming changes in cosmetics regulation, ERPA would like to present its view on some “future” challenges of this very dynamic market. We will reflect on the growing complexities in the cosmetics supply chains, challenges with defining the respective roles and responsibilities, the future of safety assessments, testing and testing standards.

These reflections represent the point of view of independent Responsible Persons, Safety Assessors and supporting Laboratories and Service Providers, united under the ERPA umbrella.”

12:30 - 13:00


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13h00 – 14h30 – Networking Lunch



Chair: Catarina Rosado, Universidade Lusófona

14:30 - 16:00

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14:30 - 15:00

Trends and Challenges on Green Cosmetics

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Consumers are demanding today cosmetic products which are clean, sustainable and respectful, but also sensorial and effective. This is driving a revolution in the cosmetic industry, which challenges the state of the art and requires a truly new vision of how to understand and create natural products through the use of science and technology.

15:00 - 15:20

BYO (Bring Your Own) Water beauty products, a new breed of sustainable products: just add water, but what type of water?

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  • Joana Marto iMed.ULisboa - Research Institute for Medicine, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Lisbon, Portugal
15:20 - 15:40

The potential of Thymus x citriodorus hydrolate to reduce Cutibacterium acnes induced inflammation, bacterial association to skin cells and to improve wound healing

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15:40 - 16:00

Assessing the anti-inflammatory properties of Cymbopogon citratus essential oil on human skin by the methylnicotinate challenge model

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  • Sergio Andrade CBIOS - Research Center for Biosciences & Health Technologies, Lusófona University, Portugal
16:00 - 16:20


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16h00 – 17h00 – Networking Coffee-break, poster and exhibition visit



17:20 - 18:30

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17:20 - 17:50

The Role of Artificial Intelligence in Beauty and Cosmetics

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Artificial Intelligence (AI) is increasingly being used as a strategic tool to make data-driven decisions, working as a complement to human decision-making. This leads to more effective processes and drives innovation in a better way, enabling a strong coordination between all the agents involved – such as managers, consumers, and partners. Digital transformation, which has AI at its core, has been disrupting companies’ operations by provoking significant changes on the value creation processes and business models firms adopt, with the increasing prevalence of digital platforms using mechanisms and technologies like AI and Machine Learning (ML). The beauty industry is no exception to this trend, and the potential for applying AI in such sector is enormous as it is a sector where there is a significant amount of data being produced across online platforms and social media channels. Furthermore, there are infinite needs of the cosmetics consumer to be fulfilled, hence there is a strong need for effective personalization and targeted marketing strategies. Despite the relevance of the topic and the considerable opportunities highlighted above, there is a scarcity of theoretical and empirical research on the field, which makes the present research question – How is AI impacting the beauty industry on making data-driven decisions? – pertinent and worth investigating. Due to the lack of academic studies on this topic, this dissertation has an exploratory nature, including two main parts: (i) a literature review based on an originally developed framework and (ii) a qualitative empirical study based on a multiple case study analysis. The data was collected through in-depth semi-structured interviews to top managers of two leading companies in the beauty sector – L’Oréal and Perfect Corp-, complemented by data from secondary sources. This dissertation had the following results: the interconnection between the latest technological trends, strong collaboration between all the agents and an effective Big Data management are critical to sustain an AI strategy to make relevant decisions in this sector.

17:50 - 18:10

New emotional and sensorial evaluations of cosmetic products using an advanced virtual reality setup

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18:10 - 18:30


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18h30 – 18h45  Awards and Closing Session