10/03/2022 Seminars

10:40 - 11:00

Dendriclear, a new active that rebalances the ACNEBIOME: the newest smart strategy against acne

Dendriclear ™ is a new concept of unique active ingredient to fight acne, through an innovative mechanism of action that respects the skin's “acnebiome”.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics research laboratories have managed to develop a lysine of natural origin and obtained through a patented ecological process. Said dendrimer has a selective action against the CUTIBACTERIUM ACNES bacteria strains, respecting the non-acneic strains of said family and reducing those that cause acne.


Through this selective mechanism, in vivo clinical results are excellent in terms of:

- Respect for the "Acnebiome"

- Reduction of sebum production

- Reduction of non-inflammatory and inflammatory lesions.

11:00 - 11:20

New approaches on Image Analysis to substantiate cosmetics claims

New approaches on Image Analysis to substantiate cosmetics claims


Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Ph.D 1, Joana Pereira MSc 2, Ana Gomes MSc 2, Manuel Fitas PharmD 1

1PhD Trials R&D Department, Lisbon, Portugal

2PhD Trials Technical Department, Lisbon, Portugal


Image analysis is fundamental for Cosmetic Industry to have a better understanding of their products, and is a powerful tool to help marketing promotion.

The present work shows advanced in vivo non-invasive approaches to facial and skin evaluation which are able to substantiate several effects on the human skin.


The skin´s changes were assessed using four different methods: a stereometry system combined with a fringe projection technique (AEVA-HE), a standard digital face photography (VISIA, Canfield Scientific), a 3D ultra high-resolution image capture (VECTRA-XT) and confocal microscopy (Vivascope) to see the modifications related with ageing process and the effect of an anti-wrinkle and hydration products. Using these techniques, we develop new software capable of showing the biometric changes projected in the 3D images.


Techniques such as mean face, multiple 3D imaging and skin biomechanics imaging, allow to show several parameters on skin, on an in vivo non-invasive and illustrative way, and therefore they can be a powerful complement on the assessment of skin ageing, skincare, haircare and make-up effects.

11:20 - 11:40


One of the more important functions of the skin is to act as a protection barrier between our body and the external environment. For this, the lipid matrix plays a key role by preventing the loss of internal water and electrolytes, and avoiding the penetration of antigenic compounds into skin layers.
The dysfunction of the lipid matrix, together with the effects of environmental aggressions like sun exposure, pollution, smoke, etc. are the main cause of skin aging acceleration.

In this lecture, we are going to focus in how the combination of 2 innovative active ingredients help to have a healthy skin by, 1) reinforcing the lipid matrix and re-building the lipid composition; and 2) hydrating the skin. A well-hydrated skin, together with a healthy lipid matrix, will help us to slow aging and to have a good skin.

DS -Cerix 5®: is an innovative ingredient that mimics the lipid composition of the skin. This optimized lipid ratio rebuilds the lipid matrix and improves the skin barrier function. As a result, the loss of internal water is reduced, and the skin elasticity and firmness increase.

Hymagic 4D®: is a combination of 4 different types of hyaluronic acid in a single product. Each Hyaluronic Acid inside Hymagic-4D have different properties, so Hymagic-4D can build up a three dimensional HA network to accurately target the different layers of the skin (from the deepest to the surface), replenishing the water from outside and holding the water from inside.

Any formulation including both products (DS-CERIX5 and Hymaigc-4D) will have all the benefits explained above.

11:40 - 12:00

The relevance of odour analysis in cosmetic products

Scents are of extreme importance in companies branding strategy for creating strong emotional bounds with customers. The characterization of sensorial properties is therefore crucial in product development and testing. The present communication provides an overview on the implementation of multifactorial chemical/sensory approaches for the odour characterization of cosmetic and body care products. A number of studies on the evaluation and performance of specific products based on olfactometric descriptive techniques and on the identification of volatile organic compounds via GC-MS are also discussed, as practical examples on the powerfulness of the integration of sensory assessment and chemical analysis.

12:00 - 12:20

Achieve Global Compliance in Real-time and In-house!

From product formulation to labelling, small businesses and large companies face the same issues in terms of regulatory requirements.

Utilizing a PLM solution, coupled with an integrated regulatory database, gives every staff of the product development team access to required information to carry out their function. Current and validated regulatory data made available on the formulas screen efficiently automatizes the checking for conformity in real-time.

With today's latest technology, ensuring that every requirement is met can be done in-house

Join the Coptis TechFocus session to better understand why equipping R&D departments with a specialized PLM software with optimized databases is an effective way to achieve complete compliance and speed up product launch.

  • Erika Foggea Technical Sales Engineer - Coptis Software Solutions
12:20 - 12:40

Proteção Solar na Rotina Diária

Sun Protection in your Daily Routine
The importance of using sunscreen through all the year is already a fact, and the evolution of Sun Protection to other SkinCare categories is a reality.
UV protection is often a benefit incorporated into skincare products, and in many regions these have been preferred over dedicated sun care.
Protection from Skin Care to Make up
The major of Skin Care brands are including SPF protection in Facial Care Categories (eye cream, lip balm, moisturizers) and these evolutions of sun protection arrives to Make Up Category where the 40% of European Women bets to Make Up with spf like bases foundation, concealers, pre-bases …
Conscious Beauty hugs Sun Care beyond a healthy & transparent, 28% of European adults aged 18-34 LOOK FOR ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS in Sun Care Category: The importance of sustainability and Coral Reefs protection become a key product driver for these Z’s & Millenials customers.
If you want to know more, come and discover our solutions for Skin Care and UV Protection.

12:40 - 13:00

Health, well-being and the skin: a constant search for balance

The modern consumer is, first and foremost, health-minded. In the past, skincare products were used to solve problems, like reduce wrinkles or soothe irritated skin. Now, the consumer has a much more preventative attitude. They understand that healthy skin is the result of a delicate biological balance, and they are actively trying to maintain this balance. Many people feel their skin is sensitive and has special skincare needs, making them particularly interested in skincare brands which provide them with products which fulfil their specific needs. In this context, dermocosmetics enjoy a lot of attention. Successfully supporting health of skin leads to a sense of well-being and increased quality of life. In order to provide the skin and, consequentially, the mind of the consumer with effective and safe products, detailed understanding of the biological processes with which the skin maintains homeostasis is a must. Products which actively work on these processes support and improve skin health. This presentation will show different examples of how skin health can be maintained or even improved, and will show correlations between how effects of skin can have an effect on the mind and improve well-being and quality of life. It is all in the balance.

13:00 - 13:20

LUMiSIZER through the STEP technology, the smart and “all in one” technology for accelerated stability tests and particle size analysis

LUMiSIZER through the Step technology is providing new approaches to solve the stability tests in shorter times and with the same technology the deeper understanding of the particle size analysis.


The technology allows the formulator to validate in hours/days instead of months/years the architecture of the formulae regarding its behaviour at gravity in short and long term and in front of the temperature (the stokes low).


New interesting approaches are proposed to validate and detect more in advance difficult to prevent diffusion driven problems like coalescence, flocculation, aggregates, …

15:00 - 15:20

How to create “greener” cosmetic formulas

In recent years, accomplish a sustainable development has been a focus point of our society and consumer demands accompany this. In the cosmetic industry, we have been seeing a shift where products are more and more marketed with a “greener” approach, being formulated with natural or natural derived ingredients. However, a “greener” cosmetic formula can not only rely on using natural or natural derived ingredients but rather assess their sustainability, evaluating what is the environmental and social impact of the ingredients used. In this communication is provided an overview of the current situation regarding the sustainable extraction of raw materials from nature, innovative technological advances to sustainable produce novel cosmetic ingredients, certifications that assure a transparent and ethical supply chain and a discussion on ingredients already used to replace others that showed to have an enormous impact on ecosystems.

  • Rita Figueiredo Study Director of Formulation and Quality Control Department - Inovapotek